From: Subject: A Truer Tale of Telltales Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 12:31:25 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C66864.2B08C090"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C66864.2B08C090 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.arvelgentry.com/A_Truer_Tale.htm A Truer Tale of Telltales

What=20 experts
write
reveal that
some of WLB-Sails=20 suggestions
about telltales
should only be = taken
with a=20 grain
of salt.

A Truer Tale of=20 Telltales?

by
Shevy=20 Gunter

This article is basically an addition to and a commentary on the = article=20 titled "Telling Tales" by WB-SAILS Ltd.. So, = you must=20 read that article (which contains an excellent treatment) = first...

Some statements made by WB-SAILS in the "Telling = Tales"=20 article may be misleading, or questionable. Either my own = experience, or=20 what experts in sail trim, sailmaking, and aerodynamics write = reveals that=20 some of their suggestions should be taken with a grain of salt. = Below,=20 these questionable statements in the article are provided along = with=20 alternative views of the truth:=20

1) "In the mainsail telltales are only needed in the = leech."=20

Nothing can be further from the truth! The WB-SAILS = document is written for sloop rigged yachts where the genoa = overlap may=20 render this statement partially agreeable, but the fact of the = matter is=20 that the more airflow attachment you have to a mainsail, the = more=20 power you generate. So, it is important to determine = whether you=20 have attachment in forward parts of the mainsail, too.=20

If you consider a cat-rigged boat ,such as the single-handed = dinghies=20 like the Laser, or a sloop rigged boat with a blade = (100% jib),=20 or a sloop rigged boat broad reaching (with a genny or a = spinnaker) the=20 questionable nature of the statement is obvious.=20

Arvel Gentry, an=20 aerodynamicist and sailor who "wrote the book" on how sails = work,=20 telltales, and sail trim would surely disagree with this. Arvel = Gentry=20 is the scientist to first figure out (correctly) how sails = produce lift.=20 So, I will mention his name often in the remainder of these = comments. To=20 find out more about him, just click on his name above. Here is = what=20 Gentry says about the "slot effect" topic (with my interjections = in=20 regular font) in a series of articles published in SAIL magazine = in=20 1973:=20

"In the case of a mainsail = alone,=20 the stagnation streamline comes in on the windward side of the = sail,=20 causing an upwash (forcing the airflow to turn towards = the=20 leeward side)... We get a very a high suction peak (large = negative=20 pressure) as the air tries the make the sharp turn around the = mast to=20 the lee side.... The pressure then starts to increase = rapidly... The=20 boundary layer will not withstand this steep increase in = pressure, the=20 flow will separate, and the mainsail airfoil will be in a = stalled=20 condition... The jib reduces the upwash on the main (gives the = main a=20 header). The primary effect of the jib is to cause = reduced=20 velocities over the forward-lee part of the main, = rather than=20 increases velocities. The slower velocities in turn give = reduced=20 pressure gradients that help prevent separation and stall = (on the=20 main) rather than some higher speed = 'revitalization'."=20

So, as you see, the goal behind using a jib or a = genny is=20 partially to prevent separation and stalling on the=20 forward-leeward part of the mainsail. And not = putting=20 telltales on the main forward of the leech is tantamount to = saying "I=20 don't care about either the main lift or the slot effect".=20

A further point is that mainsail trim affects the = wind seen=20 by the genoa! Arvel Gentry points out:=20

"The flow about any lifting = airfoil=20 can be thought of as the addition of a circulation=20 flow and a non-circulating flow... The direction of = the=20 circulation flow goes forward over the windward surface, = around the=20 luff and then toward the rear on the lee side of the = airfoil... Note=20 that the circulation flows for the jib/genoa and the main=20 oppose and tend to cancel each other out in = the slot=20 between the jib and the main. This fact tells us that we will = not get=20 all the increased air speed in the slot that is claimed by the = old ("Venturi Effect") theories... Some of the air = that we=20 would think might go through the slot is actually diverted by = the=20 combined circulation flows so that it goes on the leeward side = of the=20 genoa instead."=20
"The high velocities created by the mainsail in the region = of the=20 genoa leech in effect end up causing increased velocities and = reduced=20 pressures all along the lee side of the = genoa... So,=20 the main increases the upwash (a lifting wind shift) for the = jib. This=20 gives the genoa its great drive and also helps keep the = lee-side genoa=20 flow from separating. Proper mainsail trim is very important = in=20 getting the most out of the genoa."

So, = the way=20 you trim all of your mainsail significantly affects the = flow on=20 the lee side of the genny, and this is the second reason why you = should=20 have additional telltales on your main forward of the leech.=20

Where do you put them? The answer depends on = whether=20 you have a sloop or a cat-rigged boat.

For a sloop:=20

We need to talk about the vertical and horizontal = positions of=20 each telltale. Vertically, position three of them at about = 1/4, 2/4,=20 and 3/4 of the luff length. You need to make absolutely sure = that they=20 are (horizontally) in line with your leech telltales. = Otherwise, the=20 comparison of the conditions at the leech versus forward is = much=20 tougher, and also the time needed by the main-trimmer to check = the=20 telltale behavior becomes much longer. With unaligned leech = and=20 forward telltales, the trimmer can no longer rely on = peripheral vision=20 and must look at each telltale specifically. So, you either = need to=20 move your leech telltales, or position the forward telltales = directly=20 in line with them (taking into account the above vertical = spacing=20 suggestion).=20

What I mean by" horizontally in line" is not along = the=20 diagonal sail seams. It's not even along any "horizontal" = draft lines=20 that may exist on your mainsail. These draft lines are not = actually=20 truly horizontal -- by which I mean parallel to the = horizon--=20 when your boat heels. At the dock, just put the main up, sheet = it in=20 tight, and heel the boat by hiking or by yanking on the jib = halyard=20 from abeam. You will see that a straight draft line will look = like=20 going down at the luff and going up at the leech! So, make = sure your=20 forward telltales will be truly at the same level as the leech = telltales when your boat is sailing at its normal racing heel = in=20 medium winds.=20

To determine the horizontal positioning of these three = forward=20 telltales, now put your genny up at the dock, sheet it in = tight, and=20 mark with some tape the projection of the genoa leech on the = mainsail=20 at the aforementioned 1/4, 2/4, and 3/4 luff-length heights. = The=20 telltales should be about one foot further aft of the mainsail = luff=20 than these marks.=20

If you have a fractionally rigged boat, make sure that the = top=20 telltale is not any closer to the luff than three times the = mast width=20 along the for-and-aft axis. A more precise method of = determining the=20 most forward acceptable position is described below.=20

Finally, note that these telltale positions are appropriate = for=20 upwind sailing only when you have the slot effect. For reaches = and=20 runs, in which the main starts acting more or less like a = cat-boat=20 mainsail, the telltales should be even more foreward. But this = topic=20 will be treated later after reviewing some other comments made = by=20 WB-SAILS.

For a cat-boat:=20

For a boat without a genny, the forward mainsail telltales = are=20 located more forward as they become the "steering telltales". = But=20 before I discuss this, we need to consider the validity of = other=20 statements made by WB-SAILS.

2) "The stalling of the lower [mainsail leech] = telltales may=20 also indicate that your jib is sheeted too loosely, and causes = the=20 airflow to separate from the leeward of the main. Closing the = gap by=20 moving the jib lead forward or changing into a larger genoa will = help."=20

The fact of the matter is that the existence of a jib or a = genny has=20 NO impact on the flow of air around the mainsail leech! Flow = streamlines=20 around mainsail/genny combinations determined by Analog Field = Plotters=20 in laboratory conditions reveal that at about two-thirds of the=20 cord-length distance from the luff to the leech of the mainsail, = you=20 have exactly identical flow streamlines on the leeward side of = the main=20 either with a genny or without a genny. Arvel Gentry points out = that:=20

"At this point, we have about = the=20 same airspeeds when we have a jib and main as we had for the = main=20 alone... In fact, on the surface of the main itself, we have a = slightly higher pressure (less negative) and therefore lower=20 velocities when the jib is used than occurs without the jib... = But in=20 both cases, the distribution of pressure along the aft = one-third of=20 the lee of the main is very even... The boundary layer does = not like=20 rapid increases in pressure and it tends to = separate=20 under these conditions..." (So, there can be no = separation at the=20 leech of the main caused by the genoa trim because the genoa = does not=20 cause the pressures around the main leech to change rapidly!)=20

The proper trimming response to stalling mainsail = leech=20 telltales is to adjust the main trim, not the genoa trim. If the = leech=20 telltales are stalling and the luff telltales are not, you have = a leech=20 flow separation problem caused by the leech hooking too far to = windward.=20 The proper response is to tighten the outhaul first, and then = the=20 cunningham to let the leech fall off a bit. The idea here is = that when=20 you apply tension to any edge of the sail, the other edges of = the sail=20 will fall off some. In addition, the traveler may need to come = down very=20 slightly, too. But this will have drastic impacts on the general = angle=20 of attack of the main, and will affect not only the luff = telltales on=20 the mainsail, but also (via the "circulation flow") the genoa = trim! For=20 details, see the article titled "A Trim=20 Primer for Main and Headsail Balance".=20

3) "The very luff of the sail nearly always has a = separation=20 bubble on one side or the other which is why the telltales = shouldn't be=20 installed too close to the luff.... Two pairs of steering = telltales=20 should be installed in the luff of the sail approximately ten to = twenty=20 inches behind the luff rope... In small boats the telltales = should be=20 nearer to the luff than in bigger boats."

The first sentence is absolutely correct, but what is "too = close to=20 the luff"? I interpret the range provided as "ten inches for = small=20 boats, twenty inches for large boats". Also, the figures shown = in the=20 WB-SAILS article depict the telltales quite aft of the = luff.=20

The idea is simply that a telltale which is always within the = separation bubble caused by the headstay and the luff tape for = the=20 genoa, or by the mast for the mainsail, is useless for steering = or sail=20 trim purposes. But how about a telltale that is so far forward = that it=20 is out of the separation bubble in 50% of the conditions -- say = not in=20 light winds but in higher winds. Such a telltale provides = valuable=20 information for correct steering in these higher wind = conditions.=20

For instance, on a J-27, a telltale as far forward as only = three=20 inches from the genny luff is always out of any turbulence = except in=20 very light air (0 to 3 knots apparent.) On a Laser, the mainsail = luff=20 telltales are out of the separation bubble caused by the = circular mast=20 when they are as close as six inches from the aft edge of the = sail=20 sleeve as long as the apparent wind is above 4 knots. So, all = the=20 airflow information that you could gather by placing telltales = this far=20 forward on a J-27 or a Laser would be sacrificed if you followed = the=20 WB-SAILS advice.=20

Telltales are cheap! So, do some experimentation: cut eight = or nine=20 three-inch or four-inch nylon telltale strips for each = side of=20 each sail. Using circular "sticky-backs", place the genny = telltales at=20 your current "steering telltales" height, starting at only two = or three=20 inches behind the luff tape. Place the mainsail telltales = starting at=20 around six inches behind the luff. With one-half inches of each = telltale=20 inserted into one-inch sticky-backs, nine three-inch telltales = will span=20 a total length of 34.5 inches from the luff on the genny, and = 37.5=20 inches from the luff on the main. (Read the fuller description = in=20 Section 4 below before you actually put the telltales on. = Further=20 details are provided there.)=20

Then, go out sailing in strong air (above 15 knots) for = twenty=20 minutes. Properly trim your sails for upwind work using your = regular=20 telltales, and then check how many of the furthest forward = telltales on=20 the genoa are always stalled on the leeward = side. After you determine this, fall of ever so slightly = (no more=20 than one degree) and note that the most foreward short telltales = will=20 start stalling while the ones further aft are still drawing! = Lower your=20 genoa a bit and mark with a pencil or grease pen the = sticky-backs of the=20 telltales which were always in the separation bubble (if any). = Then, get=20 on a broad reach or reach on the same tack, with the genoa up = again. Now=20 do the same for the telltales on the mainsail. Repeat the whole = thing on=20 the other tack to compare results. The same number of = stick-backs should=20 have been marked on the two tacks.=20

After you come back from your sail, just take off the = telltales you=20 marked. If there are more than five shorty telltales (if you = used=20 four-inch telltales) or six shorty telltales (if you used = three-inch=20 telltales) remaining in a sequence, remove the extra ones = starting from=20 the leech end. Compare the position of your regular telltales = with the=20 most forward of the telltales remaining in each sequence. You = will be=20 surprised to see that the forward shorty is much more forward = than your=20 regular telltale. This is a measure of how much pointing = information you=20 were losing by the current horizontal positioning of your = regular=20 telltales...=20

Incidentally, the series of telltales that you just put on = your sails=20 are not even called telltales. They are called "Gentry=20 tufts" after Arvel Gentry who first invented them. How = to use=20 these telltales? You need to wait for the next section to learn = that...=20

4) "It's a good idea to have two sets of steering = telltales.=20 One set should be installed a bit higher and closer to the luff = than the=20 other. The telltales further away from the luff are more = forgiving and=20 you should steer according to them in rough seas and in heavy = winds. The=20 telltales closer to the luff are more sensitive and you should = use them=20 in smooth seas and lighter conditions."=20

The distinction between the smooth versus rough seas is = correct. The=20 distinction between lighter versus heavier winds is incorrect. = Forward=20 telltales will start working efficiently in higher winds, not in = lighter=20 air.=20

But that is beside the point. The main question is "why = should we=20 have two separate sets of steering telltales, one set = for light=20 winds, and one set for strong winds? What if the wind is = "medium"? What=20 if the wind is "medium-to-strong"? You get my point. The = conclusion is=20 that you need a sequence of telltales. You need the=20 Gentry tufts. They work in all wind and chop=20 conditions. It's just a matter of interpreting them correctly.=20

The fuller description of the Gentry tufts below relates to = both=20 items 3 and 4 above. The section is actually a copy of my = response to a=20 sailor who inquired on the WWW (Sailing World Instruction=20 Hotline) about how to point well:=20

The Gentry tufts should be placed parallel to the airflow. = (I=20 prefer placing them so that they are horizontal when the boat = is at=20 its optimal heel level when sailing upwind in moderate air.) = Arvel=20 Gentry suggests the series of tufts are placed starting only = 2-3=20 inches aft of the genny luff. (Better yet, you can determine = the=20 starting position using the experiment noted above.) The free = part of=20 each telltale (outside of the self-sticking circle) is only = three or=20 four inches long. Furthermore, the telltales should be nylon = rather=20 than wool. As the lead tuft right at the luff of the genny, I = prefer=20 using a three inch long tuft. This minimizes the chances of = the lead=20 tuft fouling around the luff tape or wire. The tufts in a set = are=20 mounted only 1 inch apart. (After putting on the lead tuft at = the=20 luff, I position each self-stick circle 1/8 inch aft of the = ribbon of=20 the next tuft forward.) The aft-most ribbon will end up = starting=20 somewhere around the location of a "regular" telltale. = Finally, make=20 sure that neither the port nor the starboard set of tufts on = the genoa=20 are in line with a hank.=20
The tuft system should be set up not too high (to give the = driver a=20 neck ache) nor too low (at least 1/4 of the luff-length up the = tack).=20 If you have a window on your headsail around this location, = position=20 your tufts across this window. (Ideally, you want a long = window=20 extending all the way to the luff rope.)
Theory: The Gentry tufts are used to = measure the=20 size of the separation bubble on the leading edge of the = headsail.=20 When you sail at the verge of luffing, the "stagnation = streamline"=20 (the streamline that divides the windward and leeward side air = streams) comes smoothly right into the luff, and all tufts on = the=20 leeward side will be attached. When you bear off a tiny bit, = the=20 stagnation streamline will come into the genny on the windward = side,=20 and the boundary layer on the leeward side will not be able to = tolerate the slowing down of the air flow right at the luff, = it will=20 separate from the sail at the luff, but then reattach itself = on the=20 leeward side. This is when you will see the lead tuft on the = leeward=20 side lifting. If you continue bearing off more and more, you = will see=20 your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th tufts from the luff lifting one by = one. By=20 the time the 5th tuft (i.e., your regular telltale) lifts, you = have=20 footed off considerably. Regular telltales tell you that you = are=20 stalling after it is too late. The Gentry tufts system allows = you to=20 determine exactly how close to luffing versus stalling you = are.=20
Use: Just sail with the 1st tuft on the = leeward=20 side slightly agitated in strong winds. In smooth water, if = you see=20 the 2nd tuft lifting, you are already too late! You should = have headed=20 up earlier. In lighter winds, the 1st tuft may be in the = separation=20 bubble. In this case, sail with the the second tuft slightly = agitated.=20

Arvel Gentry claims that his tuft system works on = boats=20 ranging in length from 23' to 63'. I have used it successfully = on=20 Lasers, J-24s and J-27s.=20

5) The telltales in the luff should be of woolen = yarn glued=20 onto the sail with a colorful sticky-back.

The problem with woolen yarn is that it's fuzzy no matter = how often=20 you coat them. So, the fuzz catches on the sail seams and = stitching.=20 Whenever you position a telltale in a place where some seam or = another=20 sticky-back is within its reach, it's much more advisable to use = nylon=20 telltales. Furthermore, nylon telltales are much lighter than = woolen=20 ones so they signal better in light winds while performing = equally well=20 in strong winds. The only disadvantage of nylon telltales is = that if and=20 when they get wet, they stick on the sail, and it takes them a = longer=20 time than woolen tales to dry and start flying again.=20

So, telltales that are low down on the genoa luff and leech = can be=20 woolen, but all other telltales on keelboats should by nylon (or = 8 mm=20 recording tape). As for dinghies that capsize quite often, the = solution=20 lies in fixing a few woolen ribbons as a backup system. One at = the leech=20 all the way up, and two in a sequence to be used as steering = tufts=20 (along the luff, right above your Gentry tufts) should suffice.=20

6) "Don't use the luff telltales when looking for = the right=20 position for the jib lead - the information you get may be more = harmful=20 than beneficial."

I don't get the logic behind this point at all. I have been = putting=20 one three-inch tuft three inches aft of the luff of the genoa = high up=20 along the luff (1/4 luff-length down from the head) on any boat = I raced=20 on. I use this tuft to set the genny sheet car position. It = seems to be=20 much more precise than just luffing up to see whether your genoa = luffs=20 high up or down low first.=20

The goal is locate the jib sheet car so that the stagnation=20 streamlines at the top and the bottom of the genoa come into the = sail at=20 angles that minimize the separation bubble. So, I look at my = Gentry=20 tufts and start sailing so that the first one is occasionally = agitated=20 and the second one is drawing straight aft. The part of the = genoa at the=20 height of the Gentry tufts is then just shy of being at the = verge of=20 luffing, and it is at the verge of stalling. Then I look up to = the=20 leeward tuft along the luff all the way up. If it is = stalling=20 and twirling all the time, it means that the sail has does not = have=20 enough curvature at the top. It needs to twist off more. So, = move the=20 genoa fairlead aft a bit. If the sail is luffing up there, in = which case=20 the windward side tuft would be twirling, then I move the genoa = car=20 forward a bit. I think this is a bit more precise than luffing = up. For=20 further details, see "A Trim=20 Primer for Main and Headsail Balance".=20

A word of caution is also necessary here: As noted above, = both the=20 main and the genny have "circulation flows" around them. That = is, when=20 you trim your main correctly, you alter the angle and velocity = of the=20 wind hitting the luff of the genny. So, the adjustment of the = genoa car=20 location is not a one-step process. Before the first race = starts, you=20 should sequentially adjust the genny first, then the main, then = the=20 genny again, and then the main again to find the correct genny = car and=20 mainsheet traveler car positions for the prevailing winds. For = further=20 details, see "A Trim Primer for Main and Headsail = Balance".=20

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